Block fusing, pro style!

Hi again!

It’s been a long time coming, but I’m finally sitting down to write the post on commercial block fusing that I promised a couple of months ago.


You might remember this coat that I completed at the end of last year. Due to the unusual design and my very novice coat making skills, I decided against any traditional tailoring techniques, instead opting to fuse my entire yardage prior to cutting. As you can imagine, the thought of fusing two metres of heavy coating fabric using a domestic iron was off-putting. By sheer coincidence I happen to live remarkably close to Hawes and Freer, a business that caters to the New Zealand fashion industry with their extensive stock of interfacings, interlinings, and specialty fabrics. They also happen to be the loveliest people you could ever meet, even agreeing to help out small fry such as myself! One of the great services they provide is block fusing, and that’s what I did for the fusing of my coat fabric.

The wonderful Erin was kind enough to take these photos of my fabric being fused, along with explanations for each step of the process.


Here, the wool is being fed through the fusing machine for a preliminary pre-shrinking. From Erin:

You’re using the 4025 fuse on 100% wool fabric. Machine settings: Temperature – 145˚c, Time – 14 seconds, Pressure – bar 2.5.

imageLaying the fusible onto the fabric. The glue side of the fusible lays to the wrong side of the fabric.
“X” marks the wrong side.


Fabric and fuse laid up ready to go onto the continuous fuse machine belt. Sometimes we re-trim
the fusing to fit within the fabric after the initial shrinking


The material being fed through the fuse machine coming out the end. The fuse is now set onto the


How great is that machine! Using a high quality interfacing really makes a difference, and in this instance I really appreciated the uniform bond between interfacing and fabric that I probably couldn’t have achieved with my home iron. Plus, of course, all of the time I saved. I feel really fortunate to have such a great resource on my doorstep! Check out the Hawes and Freer website to see their range of interfacings, linings, shoulder pads, buttons… they even stock some of the beautiful Merchant and Mills range.

I hope you found this explanation of the commercial block fusing process as interesting as I did!

*All opinions are my own, and I was in no way compensated or sponsored for this post. Just sharing info on a great service and a fantastic Kiwi business!*



  1. Fascinating! How come I missed the post about the bubble coat? ٩(͡๏̯͡๏)۶ It looks great on you, this colour suits you so well!
    I wish I had a similar place next to where I live to use the industrial fusing: it’s so much better than using an iron. A coat which I made two years ago and fused at home, shows little bubbles here and there.

  2. This is a great resource indeed.

    I wasn’t aware of block fusing till I sliced open my posh RTW coat and found the whole of the fabric had been interfaced which allowed easy finishing/speed tailoring not to mention helped keep me warmer in the winds. What’s this, I wondered, in my post. Some readers made helpful comments ( which led me to here. I couldn’t have been more surprised, especially as some bloggers are reluctant to use interfacing and put ‘glue’ in their clothes. I’d been led to believe this was a bad thing!

    1. It’s interesting isn’t it? I like block fusing because it enlarges the pool of fabrics from which you can make a coat, I.e. a lighter weight wool can be reinforced to provide more body throughout the whole garment. Occasionally I even see coating fabric that has been pre-fused at my local fabric shop. Very useful!

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