I’m finally getting around to sharing photos of the coat that I completed recently! I’ve been sewing like mad, preparing for an upcoming trip. I’ll keep this post short as my work is not yet done! (I.e. Packing!)
I made this coat using a Burda pattern, bubble coat with front ruffles. I skipped the ruffles though! I’m just not a ruffly kind of girl.
It’s definitely a bubble shape, no doubt about it. A certain someone suggested that it could be rather hip accentuating, but I’ve really been into the whole oversized look lately so I say ‘bring it’.
The style lines of this pattern are what really drew me to it. I love the way that the yoke and the sleeves are one piece, and I really like the front inset too. It’s such an architectural look I think. And so cozy with the rounded seam lines that come in a bit at the bottom hem.
The fabric for this came from my stash, but before that I found it on sale a couple of years ago at a little shop near here. It’s a wool/cashmere coating with a slightly furry nap, which meant that I had to be really careful about cutting everything in the same direction. For the lining I used a silk twill in a matching deep red. I’ve worked with silk twill before and it has to be about the trickiest fabric for me. It’s just so slippery! The cutting out took the longest, I’d say. After that it wasn’t too bad, especially when I tamed the fraying seam allowances with my mighty overlocker.
This was my first ever coat project, so I took some time to read up on tailoring techniques. The design of this coat meant that I couldn’t take the traditional route involving hair canvas and roll lines, so I sort of made my own way. I ended up block fusing ALL of my outer fabric, for a few reasons. The main reason was that the wool itself is quite soft and not very thick, and I really wanted the shape of this coat to be quite exaggerated. I knew that the yoke and the front would most certainly need to be fused, and because of the yoke-becomes-sleeve thing I concluded that I may as well fuse it all! I enlisted the help of the professionals at Hawes and Freer, who fused the whole lot for me in their industrial fusing machine. I should probably dedicate an entire post to it at some point as I think it’s an interesting process. Here is one photo of my fabric coming out after the pre-shrinking step:
Overall I’m pretty happy with my new coat! It’s cozy and interesting, and I learned so much along the way. All of those inset corners were a first for me, as well as bagging the lining, which was quite fun. The one thing I’m not quite sure about is the front, in terms of closures. I’m predicting that I’ll wear this open more often than closed, but I wonder if the front of the coat could use some embellishment in the form of one or two big buttons? The pattern recommends large snaps but I think they could look a bit unsightly if I were to wear the coat open. Thoughts welcome! Also, I catch-stitched my seam allowances down invisibly, or so I thought. Anyone know why they are showing through? Will a good final press with some steam take care of it?
I must say a huge thank you to Lindsay, my coat-along partner in crime. I’m not sure that I would have completed this if it hadn’t been for the deadline we imposed! Check out her gorgeous coat if you haven’t already. And three cheers for the others who joined us in our mission!