I made a jacket! It’s the Albion pattern from Colette.
When this pattern was first released, I’ll admit I wasn’t queuing up to make it. That all changed when I saw Emily‘s amazing version. To say that I was inspired by her jacket is a HUGE understatement! I pretty much accelerated to the fabric shop to hunt for a jacket-worthy cotton twill. That I did not find. But I did find this wonderful coated cotton, perfectly suited to a jacket like this. This fabric repels water and has quite a nice rugged waxy look to it which I can only imagine will increase over time. The only problem with it is that pin marks really show, and there are some permanent tracks from where I accidentally went off-piste (technical sewing term) with my sewing machine and had to unpick! Luckily it’s not ultra noticeable but it’s a little bit annoying.
The jacket is unlined, but I bound all seams using some cotton lawn from my scrap pile. It was my first time doing proper Hong Kong seams, and although it did not always go according to plan, I am not so traumatised that I wouldn’t use this finish again. It does look really nice on the bits where I didn’t mess up! Other details include using top-stitching thread for all seams visible from the outside. One thing to keep in mind is that a top-stitching needle makes a huge difference with this kind of thread. At first I was just using a regular universal needle and the results were not good!
I got my rather lovely buttons and toggles from a button and trim wholesaler here in Auckland. I went with the wonderful Reana Louise, who was invaluable in helping me pick out the right ones for the job! I am completely enamoured with the wooden buttons I used for the sleeve tabs.
Because this jacket pattern is mens/unisex I spent a lot of time hemming and hawing over which size to cut. In the end I went with XS, and the only adjustment I made was to shorten the sleeves slightly. I knew that without any adjustment the shoulders would be too wide, but I went with it anyway, and as they stand the shoulder seams are pretty dropped. I don’t mind too much but I think that if I were to sew this again I would narrow them a bit.
I wore this to work yesterday with a Liberty print Archer that I made a few months ago. This Archer has become one of my favourite pieces of clothing, there is just something so mysterious and intriguing about the print! I think it’s the combination of the purple tones with all the swirls. By the time Ben took these photos my outfit had endured a full day at work so you’ll have to excuse the wrinkles:
This shirt is one of three Archers that I’ve made so far. I’ve got more fabric stashed away for more shirts, so it’s only a matter of time before I make another one. There is something so inherently satisfying about making a shirt, don’t you think? Come to think of it, the jacket was pretty fun to make too.
Until next time!